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Ancient tracks and byways
of Secret Snowdonia
Follow in the footsteps of
the ancients:
Prehistoric megalith builders - the Romans - the Drovers - the Royal
Mail Coaches
and the Slate
Miners and Quarrymen
| Introduction
| Itinerary | Price List
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Introduction
This
walking holiday is based in Llanbedr (www.snowdonia-holidays-llanbedr.co.uk)
a pretty village on the only coastline of the Snowdonia National
Park. This is secret Snowdonia where buzzards soar over uncrowded
and unspoilt mountains, valleys, and beaches.
The Cambrian
Coast is steeped in myths and legends such as Cantre’r Gwaelod,
a drowned land stretching fifteen miles under what is now the Irish
Sea. At low tide the remains of ancient forests can be seen in the
sands and Sarn Badrig emerges from the waters, a walkway to Ireland
so the legends say. We even have our own King Arthur's stone.
A succession
of great Ice Ages sculpted the ancient Welsh landscape of the Snowdonia
National Park into magnificent rocky mountains and deep sheltered
valleys. The fertile coastal plains and richly wooded hillsides
provided prehistoric settlers with all they needed and generation
after generation left their mark on the landscape. Standing stones,
stone circles, burial chambers, settlement sites and trackways litter
the hillsides as testament to bygone lives.
After
the Megalith Builders came the Romans, in search of lead, gold and
copper at the edge of their empire. The Roman routeways can still
be traced across the Welsh hillsides and Sarn Helen, named after
a Welsh princess who became a Roman Empress, can be followed through
the region and beyond to the South Wales coast.
From the
fertile coastal plain and over the mountains the Drovers left their
mark as they herded cattle and sheep from local farms across the
mountain tracks to markets in the English Midlands.
Until
the coming of the railway people traveled in horse drawn coaches
over the mountains to get to London and its still possible to follow
the old coaching road.
During
the Industrial Revolution the area became famous for its natural
slate which was quarried for roofing tiles. This was exported all
over the world, and North Wales slate roofed the houses of millions
of people in the great industrial cities. The miners created miles
of byways into the mountains to get to their quarries and to take
the finished slates to great ships anchored off the coast at Porthmadog.
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Itinerary
An
example of our Deluxe 7 night stay with 5 days walking and one day
optional sight seeing, staying at the Bryn Artro Country Guest House.
( www.llanbedr-brynartro.com )
Day 1 Arrival Day
Arrive at Bryn Artro Country Guest House by 2.00pm and have an afternoon/evening
walk along a drovers road through the beautiful Aber Artro woods,
following the Artro river and then into the Nantcol Valley to some
beautiful waterfalls and views of the surrounding Rhinog mountains.
3 hours walk
Day
2 The Prehistoric Trackway 15km (9 miles)
Visit the Megalith Standing stones in the village before setting
out in the footsteps of our prehistoric forefathers as you follow
the old trackway high above the Dwyryd Estuary and over the hills
towards Trawsfynydd. You will have panoramic views over the Snowdonia
mountains’ and, eventually, see Snowdon itself. Along the
trackway you will pass standing stones, small burial cairns and
eventually arrive at the spectacular Bryn Cader Faner, this “crown
of thorns” standing on a remote hillside was originally a
large burial mound before the covering stones were removed.
From Bryn
Cader Faner you descend to the valley and visit the ancient Celtic
Pilgrim Church of Llandecwyn before being picked up for your return
to your Guest House and a home cooked evening meal.
Day
3
The Roman Steps 15km (9 miles)
This
natural routeway between the Ardudwy coast and the Trawsfynydd valley
would have been a packhorse route, avoiding the long trek around
the Rhinog massif.
From the head of the Cwm Bychan valley the footpath wends its way
between the peaks of the northern Rhinogs and Rhinog Fawr. As you
reach the Bwlch, (pass) a panoramic view unfolds of the high Trawsfynydd
moorlands and the hills beyond, stretching mile upon mile towards
the English border. From here the path drops into the Crawcwellt
forest and re-emerges at Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, the pass of the door
to Ardudwy. Drws Ardudwy forms the head of the Nantcol Valley, and
the path leads down to the road head at Maes y Garnedd. From here
you can either walk the length of the Nantcol Valley back to Llanbedr
or arrange to be transported back to your hotel.
Day
4
The
Harlech to London Coach Route and Drovers Road 16km (10 miles)
Today there
is an option of a high level walk or low level walk.
Drovers gathering cattle from the Nantcol Valley farms would climb
a low saddle between Y Llethyr and Moelfre and avoid the long walk
around the mountains base. In the drovers time this area was alive
with bandits awaiting the arrival of drovers whose pockets were
full of money from their sales at the English markets. Mountain
inns and hostelries provided the drovers with places to sleep safely
overnight. From the pass on the flanks of Moelfre our track descends
to the service road for Llyn Bodlyn reservoir, passing the ruins
of a drovers inn , Ty Newydd. The path descends to the delightful
Pont Scethin bridge. Amazingly, the horse drawn coaches crossed
this before they would have to climb the steep slopes ahead. Pass
the memorial to the lady who walked this way almost daily, and zigzag
your way up slope to the grassy ridge at 1600ft. Beyond the ridge,
a view of the magnificent Mawddach Estuary now unfolds and the majestic
peak of Cader Idris can be seen to the south. The path descends
a long grassy ridge crossing Bwlch (pass) Rhiwgyr then following
a mediaeval road descending to the coast and Barmouth.
The other
option is to follow the gravel track from Gors y Gedol, a 15th century
manor house and then south-eastpassing King Arthur’s Quoit,
the remains of a prehistoric neolithic burial chamber. The road
now leads to Ty Lloegr,(the England House), a shoeing station where
drovers stopped to shoe their cattle for the long walk to England.
Cross the pretty bridge of Pont Fadog over the Afon Ysgethin and
climb steadily towards Bwlch Y Rhiwgr, passing the remains of an
impressive stone circle in the fields on your right. The drovers
path now turns west towards to Dolgellau, but today your path descends
into Barmouth, your journeys end.
Day
5
A day to relax and enjoy some of the attractions of the area such
as Harlech Castle,Portmeirion, and a ride into the mouintains on
the narrow gauge Ffestiniog railway.

Day
6
The Slate Miners Trail 16km (10 miles)
From the little village of Croesor the slate miners track climbs
gently up Cwm Croesor to the pass at Rhosydd. Here the true extent
of the mining activity in these valleys becomes apparent. The derelict
quarry workings and village at Rhosydd provide a fascinating glimpse
of the enormous industry that dominated this landscape for over
one hundred years. The quarry inclines climb the slopes of Moel
Yr Hydd and the waste tips cover the hillsides. The track descends
into Cwmorthin where the bare bones of the Quarrymen’s houses,
and even a chapel, stand as testament to industrial past. The track
skirts the beautiful Cwmorthin lake and drops towards, the once
bustling, mining village of Tanygrisiau (under the stairs). From
Tanygrisiau the steam railway that once carried slate to the port,
now carries tourists and you can either follow the path alongside
the steam railway to Plas Tan y Bwlch, or catch the train through
the fabulous Vale of Ffestiniog.
day
7 Departure day
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Bryn Artro |
Bryn Artro Dining Room |
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